American Dream Tour
Burnside Bridge at Antietam Battlefield where the Confederates held the Union army for 3 hours before they retreated.
This tour was created and orchestrated by My Armo as part of his Beyond the Postcard Tours, which are private tours tailored to your interests. As someone who is married to the guy, I can tell you he brings with him 20+ years of his network so you get the best people who are often not available to the public and are well-respected in their study areas. While some of the sites may be known to all Americans like Gettysburg, he digs for the under the radar sites and stories.
Because he was hosting the tour, we flew into Baltimore a day early and that allowed me to get Bully Boss Burgers not once but twice. That meant I had double the deliciousness of burgers, sides and drinks. I mean what more could a person who likes to try different things want except maybe triple or quadruple amount!
One of the owners of Bully Boss Burgers made a special delivery to Ft. McHenry for our group. The food came hot and the drinks were cold. Check out that B brand seared into every bun.
I tried several burgers because you better believe I snagged bites of My Armo’s burgers. My favorite burger was the Carribean Jerk Burger. It was a bit unexpected, spicy (but not peppery), sweet, and meaty. Every burger I tasted was the perfect combination of juicy but not greasy with the ample amount of toppings to compliment the burger flavor which allows being able to taste every component (as opposed to only tasting toppings or only tasting the burger). Please refrain from build your own burger options. These guys crafted some incredible burgers for you so go with their expertise and please don’t customize their signature burgers.
The fries were crisp and well-seasoned so make sure you save room for some and try their specialty drinks. The cucumber lemonade and Carribean tea were both delicious, but cucumber lemonade won it for me. It was refreshingly flavorful without being overly sweet. If you ask them nicely, they might even sell you a ½ gallon so you can sip on it long after you finish the burger.
We made our way to Ft. McHenry for Defenders’ Day which is a celebration of defending US soil against British attacks in 1814. While the fort was active in defending Baltimore from the late 18th century through WWII, it is best known as the birthplace of the Star Spangled Banner which was written by Francis Scott Key witnessing the massive bombardment during the War of 1812 . Defenders’ Day is celebratory yet solemn, educational yet entertaining, and approachable yet enlightening.
While they had bands that played throughout the day, the US Military Band and Chorus closed out the night. I am a sucker for military bands; the precision of the instrumentals and vocals are incredible alone but add in the songs for each individual branch of service and it is goose bump worthy. As a grand finale there’s a firework show. Firework shows are take it leave it for me. I’m more about the company than the show, but this one is magical. They have the military band playing, with fireworks over the Chesapeake. Silhouettes of renacters appear on the berms of the fort as each firework bursts.
The most beautiful rendition of “America the Beautiful”.
While the park is not large in size, you can easily spend a day there. Start your trip off by seeing the movie in the visitor center. If you don’t want a spoiler, skip to the next paragraph. While orientation movies can often be corny and dated, this one is vibrant. You almost feel like you’re watching a blockbuster with the ending being the Star Spangled Banner with the screen rolling up to show a full wall floor-to-ceiling- window looking directly to the fort full frame. Talk about impact!
If you spend a day there, you can hop in out of ranger programs, participate in the flag raising and lowering, read the exhibits, and walk the grounds with the scenic harbor. If you’re traveling with some people who “run through museums”, tell them to bring a book or a game. There are plenty of shaded benches and tables on the water to rest.
Looking from the water (off camera) toward the fort buildings.
If there is one memory to be made there, and you can’t make Defenders’ Day, make sure you participate in the flag ceremony.
My Armo (back left in the white long sleeve tee) is hoisting a flag up during the changing of flags ceremony.
The reasons flag raising is so special at Ft. McHenry:
1) Francis Scott Key was watching the fort from the water, waiting for day to break to see if the flag was still flying to see if the US had held.
2) It flies a 15 stripe flag (they used to add a stripe for each state before it was changed back to only having 13 stripes to represent the 13 original colonies).
3) When a new flag is released by Congress it flies over Ft. McHenry first.
4) A flag flies at Ft. McHenry 24/7 (no seconds without a flag flying), the first place designated to do so (by order of President Truman).
Next up is Gettysburg. Look, believe me I get it … war and old dudes. But look past that and your world will open. Gettysburg was always on my bucket list despite not really liking military history or battlefields. But you’ll do the site and yourself a disservice if you only pop in for a photo op. I visited the battlefield four times now and it gets more interesting every time. I do think you should have a little background before you show up to get the most benefit from it. If you think you don’t like it or if you love Civil War history, a wonderful book to read is Inside the Army of the Potomac: The Civil War Experience of Captain Francis Adams Donaldson.
Gun at Gettysburg pointing toward the 1st day battle action with the Peace Light memorial on the left.
That book was basically my gateway drug into loving history books. It’s got it all. The confusion when the North and South had the same uniforms and they didn’t know what side they were shooting at, what’s it like to play dice with soldiers from the other side, mischievous fun with comrades including chasing ladies, taking a dip in a pond only for his legs to get covered in leeches, getting wounded and on leave from fighting only to return, and having a brother fighting on the opposite side of the war. Make sure you read the end notes because you’ll find out how living the war is different from reading about it. For example they had locations and generals confused among other rumors. Just a warning, the letters abruptly end when the war ends. No warning, no closure, no storybook ending. As cheesy as it sounds, I felt like I lost a friend.
Back to Gettysburg, I recommend hiring a Battlefield Guide from the the park. These guys have to pass an extremely rigorous test that is only offered when more guides are needed, so it could be years before you even get a chance to take the test. The guide can tailor the tour for your interests. Try to do at least one program that allows you to walk in the battlefield so you understand what looks flat to the eye is full of swells and rises that can make you feel disoriented and unable to see what is mere yards away. Or go “Beyond the Postcard” with My Armo!
My Armo and I with our favorite battle field guide, Wayne Motts, with the statue of General Gouverneur Warren at the top of Little Round Top. My Armo met Wayne more than 20 years ago when he worked at Gettysburg National Military Park. Wayne was the youngest person to pass the battle field guide test and has been a mentor to My Armo.
From there we headed southwest to Harpers Ferry, WV which is the confluence of the Shenandoah and Potomac Rivers. Due to geography, it became a significant point of control during the Civil War. It is a mecca for early Civil Rights beginning with the John Brown raid, an early freedmen school, and the Niagara Movement (forerunner to the NAACP).
It is a picturesque mountainside town that is on the Appalachian Trail with historic buildings lining the streets. Make sure to take the short walk up to see Jefferson’s rock which is where Thomas Jefferson stood, overlooking the river. If you continue going up, you will reach a peaceful cemetery that backs up to Storer College which began as a Freewill Baptist Missionary school for freed slaves.
Next up on the agenda was the bloodiest day in American history, Battle of Antietam. It was General Robert E. Lee’s first invasion into the North. While the Union soldiers held back the Confederates from gaining control, they had more casualties than the South. Most significantly, as a result of Union strategic victory from this battle outcome, Abraham Lincoln decided to issue the Emancipation Proclamation, integrating the end of slavery as a central goal to this war for union.
Antietam Battlefield. The fog gently lifting from the hills makes it as peaceful as it is eerie. It highlights each ripple in the landscape which is where the the enemy may be hiding, unseen from a vantage point.
We rounded out the tour in the hidden gem city of Annapolis that today is known for the Naval Academy and as a charming sailing town, but historically was an early capital of the early United States, and home of 4 signers of the Declaration of Independence including the only Catholic one (part of the Carroll family who escaped Ireland during persecution from the English).
William Paca, one of the signers of the Declaration of Independence lived here. It was later turned into a hotel and a favorite spot for after parties for naval recruits.
You better believe I found the kitchen at the William Paca house. Historic kitchens are far more sophisticated than we give them credit. For example, look in the fireplace to see how many ways the pots can be lifted for temperature control and swing outward for easy loading.
Charles Carroll was the only Catholic signer of the Declaration of Independence. This house was in his family for generations with many additions added as the years went by. Eventually it was gifted to the Catholic Church and had another addition done by members of the clergy who were not trained builders (notice the off centered and crooked windows!). No normal hours; My Armo got special access for us.
